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How to navigate this post (and find the pattern):
Products used and Recommended:
- My favorite fabric shop for knits: Funkalicious Fabrics and Girl Charlee. My favorite shop for cottons and other fabrics: Fabric.com.
- My Sewing Machine: SINGER 9960 Quantum Stylist, my coverstitch: Janome Cover Pro 1000cpx
- My Serger: Brother 1034D 3 or 4 Thread Serger or you can just use Pinking Shears
- Rotary Cutter
- I love my large ruler and large cutting mat, but you may prefer to start off with a smaller Cutting set
- Dritz Dual Purpose Marking Pen and Fray Check
- Wonder clips (I didn’t use these in the post, but they are just awesome!
- Ball point needles
- Ball Point double needle
- Walking foot
Circle Top Pattern For Girls Sewing Instructions:
(Go to page 1 for more pattern details and photos.)
- Pattern (download link found on page 2.)
- Up to 1-yard stretch knit 58-inch wide knit fabric for a size 12 (see pattern layout guide for more info)
- Ribbed binding (usually has 50 to 70% stretch) or other stretchy knit for neckline (you don’t want to use anything with less than 30% stretch-see notes under pattern tips and tricks)
- Ball point/jersey needle
- spray starch/iron
- basic sewing supplies
- Size 3: Height- 38.5 inches, Weight- 32 lbs, Finished length: 15.5.
- Size 4: Height- 41.5 inches, Weight- 36 lbs, Finished length: 16.5.
- Size 5: Height- 44.5 inches, Weight- 42 lbs, Finished length: 17.25.
- Size 6: Height- 46.5 inches, Weight- 48 lbs, Finished length: 17.875.
- Size 7: Height- 51 inches, Weight- 60 lbs, Finished length: 18.675.
- Size 8: Height- 53 inches, Weight- 66 lbs, Finished length: 19.375.
- Size 10: Height- 55 inches, Weight- 74 lbs, Finished length: 20.5.
- Size 12: Height- 57.5 inches, Weight- 85 lbs, Finished length: 22.25.
Pattern layout guide:
All sizes will fit on 1 yard of 58 inch wide knit fabric. If your fabric is 55 inches wide, you will need 1 3/8 yard for size 10 and 12.
- Enter your name and email to download the pattern. Save it to your PC, open the pdf document in adobe acrobat. Don’t print from google’s online version of adobe. (It will sometimes cause the pattern to print too small.) *there is also a new option to print only the size needed)
- Seam allowance is 3/8 inch with a 1/2 inch bottom and sleeve hem.
- Shorten or lengthen if needed by cutting at the specified mark and redraw side seam
- The pattern for the neck binding is designed for a ribbed knit with 50 to 75% stretch with good recovery (Fabric Fairy has a lot of good quality ribbed knit choices.) If using a binding fabric with less stretch, Measure the neckline and cut a fabric strip 15% less than the measurement (multiply the neck measurement by .85) and follow the instructions in step 4. (This is the “in the round” method– and it never hurts to do the finger stretch test before sewing…)
- Use a ballpoint/stretch needle
- Sew seams with either a serger, stretch stitch, narrow zig zag or a straight stitch with a longer stitch length and a slightly loosened tension. (Make a couple of practice stitches on your fabric to see what works best.) I also like to use this “lightning bolt” stretch stitch on seams that need strength but a little give. (For my project I used a combination of straight stitch and serger for seams and zig zag, double needle on the hems.)
- Use spray starch when pressing hems. Sew hems with a zig zag, twin ball point needle, narrow zig zag with a long stitch length or a straight stitch with a long stitch length and a slightly loosened tension or leave raw. (also helps to use a walking foot.)
- If you find your fabric keeps getting pulled inside the needle plate, place a small piece of tissue underneath the fabric, so the feed dogs have something to grip.
Step 1: Print pattern, tape together and cut out size needed.
Once you have downloaded the pattern to your desktop and opened it in the free adobe reader program, there’s a new printing option for you. You can now print only the size needed. (this pattern only, I’ll slowly go back and start updating the older patterns.) This function is super handy and makes it much less confusing when cutting the pattern, plus I love that it enables me to print in black and white. (that color ink can be pricey!)
Step 2: Cut pattern pieces from fabric
Cut a front and back bodice piece and neck binding. Transfer all pattern markings. (the side seam sewing line)
Step 3: Assemble Top
Line up bodice front and bodice back, right sides together and sew along the shoulder seams.
Hem all the way around the top, front and back (if desired, depending on the fabric you might choose not to hem, but you will need to cut off the 1/2 inch seam allowance.) I love hemming with my double stretch needle and walking foot!
STEP 4: ATTACHING THE NECK BINDING.
Fold binding in half and press. Open the binding and line up short ends. Sew together with a 3/8 inch seam allowance. Refold.
Divide the neck binding into four equal sections. Mark with pins or fabric marker. Divide dress neckline into four equal sections. Keep in mind; the front neckline is lower than the back, so the marking will be slightly in front of the shoulder seams.
Match up the markings, lining up the raw edges, and pin the binding to the dress neckline.
Sew the binding in place with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Stretch the binding to fit the dress neckline. Take care not to stretch the dress neckline. (That is what causes wonky, stretched out necklines. If this happens to a minor degree, pressing with lots of steam will help the neckline return to normal.)
Press the binding edge down towards the dress and topstitch if desired.
Step 5: Sew the side seams.
Line the sides of the top up evenly, wrong sides together and sew along the side seam sewing line marks. Repeat on the other side and you are done!