Scattered Thoughts of a Crafty Mom

Thursday

Pattern Re-Mix: Peasant Dress Style

(Looking for more free patterns? Be sure to check out my free patterns and tutorials page here.)

If you've been following along, You may have noticed that I have a little "pattern re-mix" theme going on with my peasant dress pattern I shared a few months ago.

Modern Peasant Dress

By modifying the basic Peasant Dress Pattern, I have made the:
Flutter Sleeve Peasant Top
How to add a split neck and ties to the dress,
Dressing up the Peasant w/ cascading ruffles and
A Gathered Romantic Cardigan.

Today, I want to show you how to make this modern version of the basic Peasant Dress.  It is single-tiered with slightly longer and puffier sleeves and gathered at the waist with a sash.  (Thank you to Erin, from Crafty Biggers for helping me come up with a name for this dress version! - I had asked for help on my Facebook page and she suggested I call it the Modern Peasant Dress.)

It only took a few simple changes to make this dress and it is a great way to showcase several cute fabrics.


When I first spotted this Riley Blake Chevron fabric back in January, I loved it, and immediately ordered a yard!  At the time, I didn't have any specific plans for the fabric, but I knew I had to have it for spring.

Unfortunately, we are getting to the size/point where one yard of fabric really isn't enough to make a dress with a full skirt.  On top of that, the chevron's in this fabric run up and down instead of side to side, so that made it impossible to squeeze out a bodice and/or sleeves.

I had the toughest time deciding on which coordinating fabrics to use.  I pulled out at least 15 different colors and prints and several fat quarters before I decided to go with the pink and white polka dot and yellow floral fabrics in this dress. My craft room is still a disaster...

Are you ready to see how I "re-mixed" the basic peasant dress to make this Modern Peasant version?

I did not take many photos while sewing the dress, so I am supplementing with photos and instructions from the original Peasant dress tutorial.  (I thought that would be easier than making you flip back and forth too much between the two tutorials for the directions. -  So you will see the photos switching back and forth between two fabrics.)

 There are a lot of details on the first tutorial.  If you are a beginning sewer, it might not hurt to review the original, here is the link...

Materials needed:
  • up to 2 yards of fabric (3/4 for the skirt, 1/2 for the bodice and sleeves and 2/3 for the sash <you could use less if you don't mind the seam being right in the front>)
  • 1/4 inch Elastic
  • elastic thread to shirr the sleeve
  • Peasant Dress bodice and sleeve pattern (the pattern comes in 12-18 mo to 2t-3t, and 4-7)(Click the names to print what you need: size 2t/3t & 4/7 bodice pattern, size 2t/3t & 4/7 sleeve pattern, size 12/18 mo bodice pattern, size 12/18 mo sleeve pattern)  When printing, be sure to turn off all scaling and you may need to manually switch to landscape on a couple of these files.)  and you may need to manually switch to landscape on a couple of these files.) 
  • fabric marker or fabric chalk
  • scissors, ruler 
  • iron
  • basic sewing supplies
 *** Important pattern printing tip***  When printing the patterns, do not print directly from Google docs.  Download the pattern to your computer and open it in your adobe acrobat reader.  Choose actual size and the landscape option.  (I just printed a pattern directly off Google docs and notice it printed slightly smaller.)

Instructions: (all seam allowances are 1/4 inch unless otherwise stated.)

Step 1: Print your pattern pieces and cut them out. (print the bodice pattern twice, so you have a separate piece for the front and back.)

Step 2: Measure to your skirt length measurement.

For the perfect length  measure your child from armpit to desired dress length and subtract 2 from this measurement.

If you don't have a child to measure, here are some guesstimates- though it wouldn't hurt to add an inch or two to my numbers to be safe, since you can always shorten the dress.  

12-18 mo: 13.5 to 15 inches
2t: 16 inches, 
3t: 17 inches, 
4:  18.5 inches, 
5: 20 inches, 
6: 21.5 inches. 
7:  23

*(Every child is different and these numbers are only guesstimates, so please use your measurements if possible.)

Step 3:  Cutting the fabric

In the original tutorial, we extended the bodice down to draw in the skirt of the dress.  For the Modern Peasant we will be adding a separate gathered skirt.

Fold the fabric for the bodice and sleeve and place the pattern on the fold of the fabric. (Fold the fabric selvage to selvage- here is a link to a photo of how the fabric should be folded)  

A.  To make the sleeve puffier and neckline higher, you will need to add 7/8 inch to the top of the sleeve and bodice pattern for sizes 2 to 7 and 1/2 inch for 12 to 18 month. 

B.  To make the sleeve longer, we need to add length to the bottom of the sleeve.  Extend the bottom of the sleeve 3.5 inches for sizes 2 to 7 and 2 inches for 12 to 18 month.


Cut out 2 sleeves, a front bodice piece and back bodice piece, adding the specified length.

Cut out 2 skirt panels:
12 to 18 mo: 27 wide by your length measurement
2t to 33: 32 wide by your length measurement
4 to 7:  34 inches wide by your length measurement

Step 5: Assemble the bodice and sleeves.

Right sides together, line up the sleeve edges with the arm hole edges of the bodice front.  Sew along this seam (marked in blue) and finish the edge with a serger, zig zag stitch or Pinking Shears.

Grab the back dress piece and line up the other sleeve edges and sew the arm/sleeve edges the same way


When you are done with this step the pieces will connect like below.  


Next, line up the front and back pieces and sew down the sleeve edge all the way to the bottom of the bodice.  Do both sides and finish the seam edge with your preferred method.


Step 6: Gathering, attaching and hemming the skirt.

Next, right sides together, sew the two skirt panels together at the sides and finish the edge with a serger, zig zag stitch or pinking shears.  Iron these seams flat.

To gather the top of the skirt, set your sewing machine to the longest stitch width and sew a basting stitch all the way around the top of the skirt.  Pull on the bobbin thread and gather the skirt fabric up until it is the same width as the bottom of the bodice.


Right sides together, pin the gathered skirt to the bodice and sew right along the gathered edge.  Finish the edge with a serger, zig zag stitch or pinking shears.  (I have some better instructions and photos of the gathering process in my sweet spring sundress tutorial.)


Flip the skirt right side out and press this seam.

To hem the bottom edge of the dress, just fold  the bottom edge over 1/4 inch, press, fold over another 1/4 inch press again and sew along the folded edge.

Step 7: Creating the neck line casing: 

To create the neck casing, fold the edge of the neckline in 1/4 inch and press.  Fold the neckline over another half inch and press again.  Use pins if needed, but be careful not to melt your pin heads!


Stitch along the edge of the casing, a scant 1/8 inch from the folded edge.  Leave a 1.5 inch opening in the casing to insert the elastic.


Cut your elastic according to this guide.  (Keep in mind you may want to cinch up your neck line more or less depending on how the dress is fitting:)

12 to 18 months: 11 to 13 inches
2t/3t: 12 to 15 inches
4/6: 15 to 17 inches
7: 15 to 18 inches

Attach a safety pin to the edge of the elastic and thread the elastic through the casing.  Have your model try on your dress if possible and make any needed adjustments.

Sew the elastic ends together (Be careful not to twist them) using a wide zigzag stitch and trim any excess elastic.  Finish sewing the elastic casing closed.


Step 8:  Sleeve finishing options:

To finish the sleeves of your peasant dress, you can choose to shirr the sleeve edge or create a casing and add elastic.

First, finish the bottom hem of the sleeves with a narrow 1/4 inch hem. (Fold  the bottom edge over 1/4 inch, press, fold over another 1/4 inch press again and sew along the folded edge - I opted for a rolled edge hem...)

To shirr the sleeves, use elastic thread in the bobbin and regular thread in the needle and sew three lines of shirring 1/8 inch apart,  1 7/8 inch from the edge of the sleeve,.  (If you need more information on how to shirr, you can find one in my simple shirred sundress tutorial.)


Step 9:  Sewing the sash.

Uh oh... I did not take any photos of this step, so I made the image below to help you visualize how to assemble the sash...


And that is it!  You are done with the Modern Peasant Dress!



Every year, we head out to find the best bluebonnet patches in the neighborhood and get pictures.


What little girl doesn't love flowers?



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41 comments:

  1. How did I never notice you were in Austin? The bluebonnets are a dead giveaway :-) Nicely done.

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  2. Thanks for the shout out. :) I LOVE that chevron material. I'm definitely pinning this for my girls. Great tutorial!!

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  3. very cute! I think the chevrons and polka dots pair perfectly! What great tutorials! I just pinned a couple of them. I adore peasant dresses and tops.

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  4. Great tutorial and gorgeous dress.

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  5. I love peasant dresses! You do such a great job on all these sweet dresses! Thank you for sharing!

    I'd love for you to check out our Pattern Party! Those with free patterns and templates to share are invited to link up. http://getyourcraptogether.blogspot.com/search/label/Pattern%20Party

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  6. So cute! Riley Blake sent me that exact fabric combo to use on a raincoat so they definitely go together well :)

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  7. very cute! I pinned it. Peasant dresses are my favorite dresses to sew for my girls.

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  8. I enjoy your blog and just have to say that you've got two of the cutest kids in blogland!! I always enjoy their pictures!! They always look as if they are enjoying each other and don't come across as being forced to pose together......oh, and your sewing is also nice!! ;)

    My first grandchild is due in Sept and I hope it's a girl so I can use your tutorials!!

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  9. love it! wish I could get my kids to pose so lovely without protest!

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  10. I'm in ave of your wonderful pictures! she looks gorgeous!

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  11. You have such wonderful sewing tutorials! Thank you!

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  12. The dots and chevrons go well together. The dress is so cute on your daughter.

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  13. Aren't those two just the sweetest? Thanks for stopping by jamie!

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  14. So pretty for spring -very cute kids!!

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  15. visiting from Twigg studio's link up. Absolutely gorgeous and a fantastic well detailed tutorial

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  16. Super cute! Good Job Momma..beautiful kids!!

    Thanks for sharing at Sharing Saturday!

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  17. That is a really cute dress! My daughter and I are going to a costume party later this month, and we weren't going to match (I'm going with a Jane Austen look), but I think this could work so we are from the same era! Thanks for sharing! I hope I can get it together and make her a dress to match with mine!

    Cheers!
    Buttons
    The Hot Toddies of Washington

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  18. Such a fund re-mix! I am a big fan of your fabric pattern mixes! I'm so jealous of your beautiful blue bonnet shots. We went out looking this weekend. Apparently they haven't bloomed in North Texas yet.

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  19. This turned out so cute and fun! It looks perfect for summertime. I think my little girl needs one.

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  20. Great fabric combo! Love the chevrons with the polka dots!
    liZ

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  21. I love the TX bluebonnets. I had to tell you that I pinned your original peasant dress tutorial a while back, and it has to be the most re-pinned item on any of my Pinterest boards. One of these days, I'm going to make these cute dresses!

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  22. Love that dress and the bow tie to match! Your models are adorable. Wish I had your sewing ability :)

    I'd be thrilled if you'd link up at this week's Off the Hook!

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  23. lovely!!! Your daughter always has the prettiest clothes :o) I came over from Ginger Snap... but I would love for you to link up to my party too! It will be open for another day :o)
    Emily
    www.nap-timecreations.com

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  24. So colorful and bright!! Love the dress!
    Rachel from R & R Workshop
    randrworkshop.blogspot.com

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  25. Thanks for linking to Take-A-Look Tuesday over at Sugar Bee Crafts - you were featured today!
    --Mandy, www.SugarBeeCrafts.com

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  26. This is so cute, and it is such a great tutorial. Nice work! Jodi @ www.meaningfulmama.com

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  27. So adorable! Thanks for the great tutorial, too! Thank you so much for sharing at A Bouquet of Talent this week. Have a great day! :)
    hugs
    Kathy

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  28. Adorable! I hope you will share at our party! http://www.thevintagefarmhouse.com/2013/04/creative-things-thursday-link-party.html

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  29. oh this dress is adorable! thank you so much for linking up to Handmade Tuesdays @ Ladybug Blessings. Make sure to come back next week! - Kristen www.ladybug-blessings.com

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  30. This is so adorable! The colors are just bright and happy! I'll be featuring this on my blog tomorrow!

    http://www.sumossweetstuff.com

    Thanks for linking up!
    Sumo:)

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  31. Nice tutorial.. This will be in my to do list !!!

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  32. I think this might be the cutest peasant dress I've ever seen! Love the changes you made and the fabrics you used!

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  33. Love the dress! and you did a nice tutorial....but I am wondering how you made the bow tie, I have grandsons and one in particular has taken to wearing bow ties to school! Thanks.

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    1. Thank you, the bow tie is really easy! The tutorial is here: http://www.scatteredthoughtsofacraftymom.com/2013/02/howtomakeaboysbowtie.html
      ~Jamie

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  35. Thank you for your wonderful post! I love the dress and am trying it out as a birthday gift for a little girl I know. I made the peasant dress for my daughter who is 1 yr old now. It was her birthday dress. I had a question about the sash instructions. Do you cut three separate pieces each measuring 26 3/4 in. or do they all together measure up to 26 3/4? I was unsure about that part. I'm anxious to see how it turns out and would love to show a photo to you after it is complete! Thank you for your time and again, for the wonderful dresses!

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  36. Super cute dress! Do you sew the sash to the dress?

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  37. I also wanted to know if you sew the sash to the dress

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    1. I did not, but you could attach the sash at the side seams.
      ~Jamie

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