Draped Shawl Cardigan (Pattern Review and Mini Tutorial)

I didn't intend for this post to be a tutorial.  I had planned on sewing up a little cardigan and just showing it off...

Ha ha ha... That didn't quite work out.

I picked up McCall's pattern 5241 during one of Joann's 99 cent pattern sale a few months ago.  I finally had a break in my sewing/crafting to make something for myself.  The weather is starting to get warmer and I had this pretty turquoise knit that would make a perfect light-weight cardigan for the Spring.

What a waste of time and fabric that pattern turned out to be.  The design is horrible!  (Next time I will read the reviews before sewing a new pattern for myself.)  The construction consisted of a rectangle of fabric with holes cut near the top and sleeves attached.  It was terrible.  It was more of a wrap, not a cardigan.  No real neck area and the fit where the sleeves attached was so weird and awkward it would not stay on my shoulders.

Thank goodness I had cut view C (the longest cardigan) so I had a lot of fabric I could re-work.  I was able to save it by tracing out a pattern with a cardigan I already had and cutting new pattern pieces from the fabric. I was even able to remove the sleeves and re-use them.

I was worried about salvaging my fabric into a wearable cardigan, so I didn't take many pictures during the process.  My version of a Draped Shawl Cardigan is Suprisingly easy, and I can recreate the steps for you here in miniature (hence...  mini-tutorial).  (If I had more fabric, I would certainly make another.)

Here is how I made the Draped Shawl Cardigan.

Items needed:
2.5 yards of 58+ inch wide knit fabric.  (The prettiest most flattering fit will come from a thin drapey knit. I used a slub rayon knit from fabric.com that was 68 inches wide.)
Measuring tape
Thread
Scissors
Freezer paper or some other paper big enough to trace a pattern onto
Marker
Shirt or sweater that fits well to trace for the pattern

Instructions:

First step is to make a pattern.  Using a measuring tape, measure from the top of your shoulder down to where you want the back of your cardigan to hit.  Fold your shirt in half so the back is showing and trace the shape onto the freezer paper like the picture below, extending down to your back measurement.  (You could trace directly onto the fabric, but I like to make patterns only once and reuse them.) Add 1/4 inch all around your pattern for the seam allowance.  Cut out your pattern piece.  You will use the same piece for the front and back.

My trick for tracing pattern shapes in awkward areas is to use a Tracing Wheel and Tracing Paper.

Next, trace the sleeve on to the paper for a sleeve pattern.  Add 1/4 inch around the bottom and shoulder edge.  Cut out your pattern piece

Fold your fabric in half an cut the back piece as shown.

Next, using the same pattern piece, cut the 2 front pieces as shown:

Finished pieces will look like this:

Cut out your sleeve pattern.

Right sides together, sew the shoulder seams, the side seams and the sleeve seams using 1/4 inch seam allowance.  (See the black lines below.)
.

Right sides together, insert the sleeve into the arm hole and match up the bottom seam of the sleeve to the side seam of the cardigan.  Pin securely and sew 1/4 inch from edge.

After studying a couple of my cardigans, I have figured out the secret to making this style of cardigan so awesome!  The secret is to add an extra shawl collar.

With your leftover fabric, cut a strip 8 inches by 70 inches.  (I cut 2 that were 8 x 35 1/4 and sewed them together.)  70 inches is probably too long, but you can trim the edges later. (Too long is better than too short IMO.)

Lay out your cardigan and right sides together, pin the strip all along the top of the cardigan and sew as shown below.  Even up the edge of the shawl collar and cardigan if needed.

To see this bigger, left click on the photo and open in a new tab.

Fold over the shawl and tack the collar down in these spots.

Now try on your cardigan and trim the length if it is too long.  After I tried on my cardigan, I ended up taking a little volume out of the sleeves by moving the seam in on the bottom half of the sleeve.  You can also even up the bottom edge if you would prefer an even hem over a staggered hem.

You are done!  I love how my cardigan fits, it is just perfect for keeping warm on a chilly day while lounging around the house or running errands.

If you are inspired to create something based on this tutorial, I would love to see it!  I have created a new Flickr Group for you to share your creations.  Here is the link: Creations inspired by Scattered Thoughts of a Crafty Mom.  (Please share, you might get featured!)

I am so sad this picture turned out blurry.
I had my camera on the wrong setting for a bunch of pics.

I love the options with this cardigan.  Have a cute outfit to show off?  Tie it around your waist!

Wind picked up at the soccer game?  Throw the shawl over your shoulder to keep your neck warm!

(I took all these pictures myself.  Pretty good for a self portrait, right?  I bought a magical accessory worth its weight in gold...  A wireless remote for my camera! It's awesome!  If you don't have a remote and a tripod, you need to get one!

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