Scattered Thoughts of a Crafty Mom

Wednesday

Go Anywhere Knit Dress Tutorial

(Looking for more free patterns? Be sure to check out my free patterns and tutorials page here.)

how to sew a dress


I love knit fabric!  I would take a guess and say 95% of my dresses and tops are made from knits.  I have managed to collect a few pretty knits and have decided it is time to make something for myself.  I really liked how the top I made a few months ago turned out,  and using the same basic pattern I made a dress!

This dress is very easy to make, once the pattern is made and fabric cut, it goes together super quick.  (The only thing that slowed me down was the picture and note taking for the tutorial, ha!)


The great thing about this dress is you can adjust the hem, sleeve length and waistband location to what suits you best! Then you can dress it up or down and go anywhere! (Thank you to Jan J, one of my Facebook fans for helping me come up with the name!)

Find out how to make this dress after the jump!



Here is the tutorial for the Anywhere Knit Dress!

Materials needed:
  • 2 to 2 1/2 yards of 60 inch wide knit fabric
  • 1/2 inch elastic
  • large paper to trace pattern (Wrapping paper, art paper, freezer paper- I used wrapping paper)
  • loose fitting shirt to trace
  • fabric marker
  • ball point needle
  • measuring tape
  • ruler
  • scissors
  • iron
  • spray starch
Step one: Tracing and cutting the pattern.

Measure from your shoulder to the point you want your dress to fall.  You can go mini or maxi length, it is up to you!

Add 1 1/4 inch for seam allowances and hem.  To be safe add an extra inch or two for any blousing that may occur after adding the elastic.  (You can always take off extra length before hemming.)

Lay the shirt for tracing out on your paper, smoothing out all the wrinkles.  If your paper is wide enough, I prefer tracing the entire shirt on to the paper, but you can just fold your shirt in half and trace half the shirt.

Trace the back neckline onto the paper.  To get the dolman style sleeve, angle your pattern lines straight from the neck to sleeve edge and straight down the sleeve as shown.  (you can draw your sleeve longer if that is what you like, I did.)  Add 1/4 inch all the way around for seam allowances.

How to make your own dress pattern

Cut out your pattern. (If you trace the entire shirt, find the middle and fold the paper in half then cut the pattern out from one side.)

Fold your fabric so the selvages meet in the middle and lay your pattern out on the fabric.

Measure from the top of the shoulder to your length measurement and mark that measurement on fabric with fabric marker.

Determine where the hip area is on the fabric and make sure you have 3 to 5 inches of ease at that point. (3 to 5 inches in total, so that would be .75 to 1.25 when laying out the pattern on the fabric.  The less stretch your fabric has the more ease you will want.)  Mark this measurement on the fabric.  Based on you hip mark, adjust your pattern shape to create a very slight a-line shape to your bottom measurement mark.


Cut the pattern from your fabric, then use your first cut piece for the pattern to cut the second piece.  Hard to see, but that is what I am doing in the photo below.



Determine which side will be the front, then lay your t-shirt out on the front piece and trace out the front neckline directly on to the fabric.  If your shirt has binding like mine below, try to trace where the binding meets the shirt.  (We will be adding binding later.) If you are using a V-neck shirt to trace, gently round the neckline so you have more of a scoop neck.


how to make a dress

Cut out the front neckline.


Step 2: Assembling the dress.

With the front and back pieces right sides together, sew the shoulder seams and side seams together with a straight stitch.  


Find a mirror and try on your dress.  Using a piece of elastic, a piece of string or belt, tie it around your waist where you want your waist band to be.  Check how the dress fits.  Do you need to take in the sides?  My fabric was very stretchy and after 2 adjustments, I ended up taking out 2 inches.


Once you have the dress fitting the way you like it, grab your make-shift belt and tie it around your waist again.  With your fabric marker, mark the sides were you want your waist band.  (I prefer empire waist dresses, so that is where I made my marks.  


Step 3: Adding the binding to the neck and sleeves.

Lay out your dress and measure one of the sleeve openings.  Double this measurement to get the measurement all the way around and add 2 inches.


Cut 2 pieces of binding (Stretchy-ness should be side to side) to your sleeve measurement plus 2 inches by 1.75.

Fold the binding in half and iron flat.  If your fabric edges are curling, use spray starch to help keep them flat.


Step 3b:  Line up the raw edges of the binding and the sleeve edge.  As you are lining up the binding, very gently stretch the binding, BUT NOT THE SLEEVE!  Use a few pins to hold the binding in place, but leave the ends loose. (By stretching the binding, the binding should end up being about 1/2 inch less than the sleeve.)


Mark where the binding edges overlap.


Remove the binding from the sleeve.

Open up the binding and right sides together, line up the marks and sew.  Trim the edges to about 1/8 inch.


Iron the new seam flat and flip the binding back.

To help evenly line up the binding around the sleeve, we need to mark the binding into 4 equal sections.  Fold the binding in half one way and then the other way to find the 4 center points.  Mark these points with your marker.


Fold the sleeve the same way and make 4 equal marks.  Then line the raw edges of the binding and sleeve back up and pin the sleeve and binding together at the 4 marks.  (The photo below is the neckline, but it's a very good illustration.)



Increase your stitch length just a bit.  (This helps when working with knits)  Sew the binding to the sleeve about 1/8 inch from the edge.  You should have to stretch the binding just the tiniest bit, but do NOT STRETCH THE SLEEVE.



Repeat this process for the other sleeve.  (Go back to step 3b for the second sleeve.  I recommend repeating the binding attachment/measuring process in case your sleeve aren't the exact same measurement.)

Measure around your neckline and cut a piece of binding this measurement plus 2 inches by 1.75 and follow the same process to attach the neckline binding.

With the iron, press the binding seams toward the inside of the dress.  If you want, you can finish these seams with a zig zag stitch or serger, but it is not necessary since you are working with knits.

At this point, you can top stitch around the binding.  (I top stitched around my sleeves, but I ended up chicken-ing out on the neck binding.  I was too afraid of stretching out the neck line...)

Step 4:  Adding the elastic waistband casing.

Find the marks you made earlier for where you want your waistline.  Measure across the dress, double that measurement and add an inch.  Cut a strip of fabric, 1 inch by that number.


Put a pin through the waistline mark so you can find it and you flip the dress inside out.  Pin the fabric strip all the way around the dress and sew right along the edge of the fabric strip.


Measure your waist (or the spot where the casing will sit.)  Cut your elastic to this measurement minus one inch.  Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and thread it through the casing.  Pin the ends together, try on your dress and make sure the elastic is tight enough.  If you are making a maxi dress, you will probably want the elastic tighter to help support the weight of the skirt.  I did tighten mine up a bit more as well.

Using a tight zig zag stitch, sew the edges of the elastic together.  Trim the excess elastic and slide the elastic around so the edges are inside the casing towards the back and the fabric is evenly distributed around the dress.

To keep the elastic from sliding around, you can sew a few stitches at the side seams, right through the elastic.


Step 5:  Hemming the dress.

To hem the dress you have a couple of options.  I am always very hesitant about hemming knits.  I really dislike it when I spend a ton of time sewing a dress and then stretching out the final hem.  (That is why I added binding to the neckline and sleeves instead of a simple fold over hem.)

Since this dress is made with knit, you could leave it raw.  I have done this many times and am fine with it. You could use hem tape.  I've heard good things about sewing through a piece of tissue paper to help stableize the knit.  There is also something called Water Soluble Stabilizer, I've never tried it, but I bet it would work too.


For my dress, I decided to combine all the tricks I know and just go for it!  First, I applied a heavy amount of spray starch to the fabric edge.  I folded the edge over 1/2 inch, pressed, folded another 1/2 inch and pressed again.


I put my walking foot on my sewing machine, used a ball point twin needle and increased my stitch length. I sewed the hem very slowly, making sure the fabric was feeding through the machine evenly.  I have to say, I am very pleased with this method!  It did not stretch at all and this fabric is VERY stretchy!





If you use this tutorial to make a dress, be sure to come back and share it on my Facebook page or Flickr group!


Be sure to leave me a comment or send me an email If you have any questions or problems.  I'll do my best to help!


If you like this project and want to see more, you can follow along using the Google Friend Connect widget, through a reader, or signing up via email.  Just click on one of the icons below:


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I will be linking up to some of the linky parties listed here.




38 comments:

  1. I love "anywhere" dresses! Yours is gorgeous...now I need to find some knit fabric that I like so I can make on, too! Thanks for showing us how. :-)

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  2. I'm always hesitant to buy knit fabric but given this tutorial I may very well try to make this dress. It looks gorgeous on you.

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  3. I love this ... Knit dresses are great, especially with changing body shape whilst having kids! Haven't made anything for myself to wear yet, but think this could be a good option!!

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  4. what a great dress,thank you for the tutorial!
    kudzu

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  5. You did a great job with this pattern. I have a link party, and I would love it if you would link this post. You can find it at
    http://www.adornedfromabove.com/2012/07/face-cleansing-oil-and-wednesdays.html
    It is called Wednesdays Adorned From Above Link Party.
    I hope to see you there. Have a great Day.
    Debi Bolocofsky
    Adorned From Above
    www.adornedfromabove.com

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  6. This dress is great! We'd love to feature it on CraftFoxes.com as a how-to. Interested? Feel free to email me at bethany@craftfoxes.com.

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  7. This dress looks so comfy. And your tutorial is awesome. I don't really sew, but I want to start. I love how you have pictures of all the steps so it is easier to follow along. Maybe even I could do this.

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  8. Such a pretty fabric and a beautiful dress. Great job!

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  9. Your tutorial is clear and easy to follow. The fabric is comfortable and would give it a go.

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  10. You are invited to share this with Show Your Stuff blog hop:
    http://juliejewels1.blogspot.com/2012/07/show-your-stuff-34.html

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  11. So fun to see YOU modeling one of your dresses. This is so awesome. I love the fabric choice. Great job!!!

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  12. Great dress! Perfect for every day wear! I keep thinking I need to make a few of these for myself...

    I hope you will add it into SewSet :)

    Thanks for sharing!

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  13. So pretty and I bet it is like wearing pj's!

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  14. Oh my goodness! What a cute dress! You make it look so simple that even I could try it! Found you on Think Pink Sunday! :)

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  15. Love this dress - you did a great job. I will definitely be making one for myself!

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  16. Your anywhere dress looks great, comfortable and an easy wear piece. I am going to try this out, it looks so comfy, and you gave a great tutorial! You make such a great model! So glad you shared your creative inspiration with Sunday’s Best – your creativity helped make the party a success!

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  17. You're AMAZING! I am visiting from Skip to my Lou. I am a new follower! I blog over at http://www.garagesalesrus.blogspot.com/ I hope you will stop by and do the same. I also have an awesome giveaway going on right now with a cricut machine. It ends soon! I would love it if you would enter!

    Robin

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  18. gorgeous fabric! I wish I was a better sewer

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  19. Very cute and simple! Also your bottom hem looks great! I was having trouble hemming the bottom of my knit skirt. I'll have to try starching it like you did.

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  20. This dress looks amazing. Amazingly beautiful, and amazingly easy! One of my 30 by 30 goals is to sew a dress...and wear it. I have knit fabric in my stash, I think I'm going to try this one as my first dress. Thanks so much for posting!

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  21. LOVE the dress!!! The shape and fabric are GREAT!

    Thanks so much for sharing this at The DIY Dreamer.. From Dream To Reality!

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  22. Love it..........Thanks for stopping by CountryMommaCooks and linking up at our Saturday Link and Greet Party...hope to see you again tonight : )
    Deana @ CountryMommaCooks

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  23. Very cute! I pinned this to remember for later!
    I would love to have you link this up at my linky party! http://domesticrandomness.blogspot.com/2012/08/new-to-inlinkz-first-linky-party.html

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  24. Thanks so much for linking up to Your Whims Wednesday, I featured this on my blog today! Come stop by and grab a featured button: http://www.mygirlishwhims.com/2012/08/your-whims-wednesday-71-and-features.html

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  25. Love this tutorial! This is great! I am wanting to try this. Thanks!

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  26. This is one of the most attractive yet comfortable looking dresses I've seen in quite a while. Great job!

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  27. I love this dress! I'm trying to recreate this one: http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/55299_435931843110544_166213386_o.jpg

    But, with a bigger neckline. I'm wondering if this tutorial could work for regular old cotton fabric. I sew bags and have never sewn myself a dress... just some very simple girls shirred tube top dresses. I'd probably skip the binding parts and just hem since the fabric wouldn't be stretchy. I suppose the sleeves would have to be sewn on rather than just one piece...

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  28. Still scared of knits but seeing other people work on them gives me hope :)

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  29. Do you think I could hand hem instead? Thanks Sarah

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    1. Hi Sarah, if you are working with knits, you might want to consider just leaving the hem raw. When sewing with knits, you have to worry about a non-stretch stitch breaking. I did find this thread on craftster suggesting stitches that might work for knits. http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=341260.0

      Good luck,
      ~Jamie

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  30. Hi, Jamie! I think your dress is beautiful! I found it today on SewSet, and although I've not sewn much with knits before, I'd like to try it. I also really like the classic print on your fabric. Would you share some of your favorite sources for knit fabrics? Thanks! Julie

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  31. Hi Julie, I get the majority of my knits from:
    http://www.fabric.com/
    http://girlcharlee.com/
    http://www.etsy.com/shop/funkaliciousfabrics
    Good luck!
    ~Jamie

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  32. Очень красивое платье. Я расскажу о нем с вашего позволения.

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  33. I was thinking of trying this but breaking up the fabric at the elastic, like a solid on top and a coordinating print on bottom. Do you think that would look good or just go with one fabric for the whole dress?

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    1. That could be very cute! If you are wondering how to put that together with the elastic, I have a tutorial here: http://www.scatteredthoughtsofacraftymom.com/2013/07/How-to-sew-a-tiered-maxi-dress-tutorial.html that shows how to do that.
      ~Jamie

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  34. I wanted to say thank you for this awesome tutorials found it on Pinterest and HAD to try it! I'm 17 weeks pregnant and wanted to make some comfy dresses to use throughout and after my pregnancy. I was able to finish this pattern and dress today, and cannot believe how great if looks! Neck and arm holes with knits always gave me a hard time, but thanks to you I now know how to easily do them!

    The only issue I had was that after hemming the bottom, I noticed that the side seams of the dress were *slightly* puckered? I used a straight stitch as directed, but am wondering if I should use a zig zag instead? It feels like the fabric "slides" along the threads if I pinch the thread and pull the fabric along it. It doesn't look that noticeable when the dress is on and the fabric is draped, but I'm concerned about what will happen when I wash it. Any suggestions on what might have happened? Thanks so much!

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