Spring is definitely here, which for us means cool mornings and very warm afternoons. For school, my daughter typically wears shorts and skirts with short sleeve tops, topped with a light sweater or cardigan for the morning. She’s in need of a few extra cardigans since we’re down a few from the first of the school year. (They just get lost.)
I still had a good amount of the pink interlock fabric I used on the Romantic Cardigan I made last year, and it never hurts to have to many pink cardis…. BTW, I love this interlock fabric, its nice and thick and has a good amount of stretch. You can get it online at Hancock Fabrics, though I typically get it form my local store. I did notice they have it in a royal blue, I may have to grab some since that color is so popular right now.
This little Cropped Ruffle Cardi turned out so cute! I used my Twirly T-Shirt Dress pattern to make it. She is wearing a size 6 right now and I thought I would need to up-size so the cardigan would fit over her clothes, but the 7 was definitely too big. To fix it, I just trimmed a bit out of the center of the back (so now there is a seam there) and the front edges. I also went back and removed some of the width from the sleeves. So if you make this cropped cardi, don’t size up.
- up to 3/4 yard of a 56 to 60 inch wide fabric I recommend a mid to heavy weight cotton or cotton blend with good stretch and recovery (interlock or french terry, maybe a thinner sweatshirt fleece)
- pattern link is on this post (any t-shirt pattern will work)
- ball point needle
- flexible measuring tape
- basic sewing supplies
Cut out two sleeves on the fold. If you want the sleeves to be slightly less puffy and more evenly distributed, move the gathering dot over an inch and a quarter as shown below.
Step 3: Assembling the cardigan.
Rather than making you click back to the t-shirt dress instructions, I’m just pasting the next few steps from that tutorial, so pardon the change in fabric…
Line up the front and back bodice pieces, right sides together. Sew along the shoulder seams, 1/4 inch from edge.
Mark the center top of the sleeve. Sew a basting stitch from pattern mark to pattern mark, 1/4 inch from edge. Don’t back-stitch.
Loosely gather the top of the sleeve. Leave the threads loose so you can adjust gathers when pinning.
Spread the bodice out flat, right side up. Then, right sides together, line up the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam and pin the top of the sleeve to the arm hole (armscye- I feel funny using the term armscye, I always use “arm hole” when talking to my self…)
You may need to loosen or tighten your gathers to make the sleeve the same length as the armscye.
Sew the sleeve to the bodice.
Looks like this when you flip it over. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Line up the side seams of the bodice and sleeve and sew along the edge. (for both sides.) You can remove the gathering stitch from the shoulder seam if it is showing.
To hem the sleeve edge, (I recommend using a double needle and walking foot) fold the edge over 1/2 inch, press using spray starch and sew.
Keep pinning until you are back to where you started.
At this point, you could pin the two edges together and sew them, or just fold them over, pin them down and sew it in place. Just make sure you are folding the edges in the correct direction and the extra fabric does not show when you flip the ruffle into place:
Flip the ruffle over and press. Make sure the seam allowance s pointed in toward the seam.
Top stitch along the edge of the ruffle seam. (The dashed line in the picture below.) Before top stitching, you might want to do a test run with some scrap fabric. (Make a small ruffle strip and attach it to a fabric scrap.) You will want to play with and perfect the needed stitch length. My fabric was so thick with the seam allowance and layers that I loosened the tension just a bit and increased my stitch length almost to the gathering stitch length.
Daddy’s home! (I’ve been dumped…)
If you make one be sure to share your project on my face book page or tag me on Instagram!
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